Humans are holistic beings, from head to toe and inside out. We have simple, and sometimes complex, thoughts, emotions, experiences, preferences, and natural tendencies that make up who we are. There are countless ways we can express our individuality.
When it comes to professional presence and personal style that’s where knowing your style essences can help!
The first step in learning your style essences is exploring your inherent physical traits and natural temperament.
My training is from the teachings of Suzanne Caygill. It was her belief that everything from head to toe was important and valuable in determining your style essences. It starts with your hair, then eyes, skin-tone, facial features, bone structure, height, curves or straightness, posture and poise. Even the way you walk and the tone of your voice. She associated these findings to one’s Seasonal Color.
There are other very knowledgeable and experienced professionals who have put a stake in the sand regarding Style Essences.
- John Kitchener, PSC System of Color & Essence Harmonies focuses on facial features.
Since becoming an Image Consultant in 2013, I’ve dedicated thousands of hours to observing people and how their traits inform me about their style essences. It brings me great joy to help women and men use their unique style essences to align their personal and professional image goals. I have learned so much about this subject and would like to thank Gabrielle Arruda, Andrea Pflaumer, among others for distilling it down.
In this post, I’m going to put my spin on the seven Kitchener Style Essences. With each essence, I’ve included adjacent styles and brands most aligned with that essence.
Feel free to read through the different essences and decide for yourself which style types most align with you. If, after reading through them all, they still seem Greek to you, feel free to book a FREE Style Strategy session with me to discuss next steps.
Style essences are rooted in the centuries-old philosophy of Yin and Yang – a concept of dualism. The phenomenon that seemingly opposite forces may actually be interconnected and interrelated in nature and style.
- Yin style is curved and soft. Also, petit, curvy, round face, full lips, delicate, soft cheeks, flowy, doe-like eyes, sloped shoulders.
- Yang style is angular and structured. Also, tall, vertical, angular, straight, almond or narrow eyes, sharp cheekbones, muscular.
It’s very likely for people to have both yin and yang in their style.
Let’s get started!!
DRAMATIC – MOST YANG
Physical features:
Tall, above 5’7”
Large-boned, rectangular body shape.
Long oval face shape, chiseled, angular features, but not always.
Sharply defined eyebrows, brown eyes, and straight, long nose
Hair color generally black, dark brown, dark auburn or gray. Hair style angular cut, center part, or afro.
Overall coloring has extreme definition and contrast.
The voice is deliberate and resonant. The walk is decisive and purposeful.
Manner: Theatrical, intense, extroverted, sensibility, strong, and confident.
Style: Loves fashion (not afraid to try new styles), asymmetry, structured menswear, oversized silhouettes, and poofy. Modern, trendy, hip, fancy, glamorous, boldness, sharpness (making a statement), edgy, striking contrast, majestic lines, wildness (animal print), extravagance, and danger.
Adjacent styles: Fashionista, City Chic, Edgy, Gothic, Avant Garde.
Designer/brands: Saint Laurent, Valentino, The Andamane, NBD, Mango, Henning NYC, Elequoi, Open Edit, Versace, Coperni, The Attico, COS, Muglar, Alaia, Ralph Lauren, Poetry, Pure Collection, Velvet by Graham & Spencer, The Row, Alexander McQueen, Altazura, Celine, St. Laurent, Chico’s, Wolford, Veronica Beard (Balmain jacket), Erdem, Barbour, Club Monaco, Meesha Nonoo, ExtraITAstyle.com (Artico, Martin Zelo, Karma of Charme)
GAMINE/HIGH-SPIRITED – YANG
Physical Features:
Height, under 5’3”
Rectangular, compact, small and straight, small-boned.
Posture is alert, energetic.
Facial features are small, oval, triangular shapes, apple cheeks and can have a pointy chin.
Eyes are naturally shaped, hazel, blue or brown. Nose is short and pointed (can be upturned), mouth is full of expression.
Hair color can be light brown, blonde, red or light gray with age. The hair style is short, layers, bangs.
Typically no contrast in skin-tone (when contrast is present, it’s more ingenue or dramatic). Skin can be freckled. Walks with a skipping quality, quick and unrestricted. Overall coloring is natural contrast but no extremes.
Manner: Playfully dramatic. Direct, quirky, animated, speaks quickly (can be low or high-pitched). Appears young. Pixie, quirky, unchangeable, impish (mischievous), clever.
Style: Small-scale sharp, trim structure, and compact bodies. Trendy and bold. Shorter and crisper silhouettes that have a playful feel. Perky & confident, stiff edges, cute, boyish lines.
Well-coordinated, mischievous look, warm and rich colors. Rebellious, energetic, whimsical energy, play, exuberant/lively, spunky, creative and bold.
Adjacent styles: Creative, Theatrical, Artsy, Garconne, Flamboyant, Tomboy
Designer/brands: Gucci, Anthropologie, Gap, H&M, Shop Cider, Lisa Says Gah, House of Sunny, Realization Par, Miaou, Zara, PacSun, BaubleBar, Moschino, Bershka, Ganni, Miu Miu, Sandro, Uniqlo, Draper James, Self Portrait, Revolve, Asos Petite, Nasty Gal, Ralph Lauren, Poetry, Pure Collection, Velvet by Graham & Spencer, The Row, Alexander McQueen, Altazura, Celine, St. Laurent, Wolford, Veronica Beard (Balmain jacket), Erdem, Barbour, JCrew, Club Monaco, Meesha Nonoo,
NATURAL – YANG
Physical Features:
Above average, 5’5” – 5’7”
Muscular, athletic, broad square shoulders, toned body.
Facial features are long, rectangular, soft square, angular jaw, wide forehead.
Eyes are an average size relative to face and convey a warm and approachable feeling. They are typically dark brown, brown, or hazel. Eyebrows of course are natural, could be straight and heavy or dark. Nose is strong, wide, long, angled or blunt. Mouth sends an easy-going smile and possibly a full-size lip.
Hair color can be dark, medium brown or auburn and can go salt-n-pepper with age. The style is usually casual and natural (no surprise there!), unfussy, waves, dreadlocks, or afro.
The skin is natural and can be freckled, tan, natural-looking. The voice is clear, strong, and could be lower-pitched. The walk is relaxed, easy, and with long strides. Overall coloring is natural and outdoorsy.
Manner: Casual, free-spirited, straight-forward, friendly. Relaxed, girl-next-door, sporty, outdoorsy, magnetic personality. Appears mature at any age, but not “old.”
Style: Simple, comfortable, textured fabrics, informal, large, friendly lines, length, unstructured shapes, down-to-earth, activeness, loose fitting, oversized, shapeless, irregularity, asymmetry, sturdiness, tribal or bohemian patterns, denim, unruly, layering, earthy colors, rustic, casual, layered, earthy, Lagenlook (started in Germany, it combines layering clothing of a variety of lengths. Loose clothing).
Adjacent styles: Sporty, Casual, Relaxed, Athleisure, Tonal, Bohemian Chic, Boho, Lagenlook.
Designer/brands: Banana Republic, Boden, Chico’s, Coldwater Creek, COS, Cuyana, Eileen Fisher, Everlane, Garnet Hill, J.Jill, Land’s End, Poetry, Pure, Ralph Lauren, Sundance, Zara, Wilfred,
CLASSIC – YIN AND YANG
Physical Features:
Average height, 5’4” – 5’7”
The hips and shoulders are similar in size. Body is toned, but not highly muscular. Posture is well-balanced and poised.
Facial features are oval and symmetrical. Eyes are average in size, direct, but not intense in colors like blue, hazel, and brown. The eyebrows are gently arched. Nose is average-size, straight, and unexaggerated with again, an average-sized mouth.
Hair style is polished, simple, and neat in colors like soft-medium shades of blonde, brown, medium dark shades.
The skin is clear, even-toned, without contrast. The voice is pleasant and clear. The walk is calm, poised, dignified. Overall coloring is medium to light.
Manner: Elegant, refined, timeless. The age of appearance is always poised and mature.
Style: Minimal, tailored, simple, neutrals, classic, preppy, menswear, controlled-looking, formal, conservative, restrained, symmetrical lines, timeless, neutral, elegant.
A Classic wardrobe: button-down shirt, trench coat, cashmere sweater, pencil skirt, jeans, tailored trousers, white t-shirt, stripe t-shirt, little black dress, blazer, Everyday Dress (casual silhouette, like wrap, a-line, sheath) pumps/heels, loafers. Handbags are good-sized, versatile color or tote. Sunglasses finish it off.
Adjacent styles: Traditional, Preppy, Androgynous, Business, Business casual, Elegant, Tailored, Minimalist, Neutrals, Parisian/French-girl
Designer/brands: Ann Taylor, Banana Republic, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Chadwicks, COS, Cuyana, Diane von Furstenberg, H&M, J.Crew.
ROMANTIC – YIN
Physical features:
Average height 5’4” hourglass or pear. Long legs, long + sharp, rich + glowing, striking contrast, cinched at waist, luxurious fabrics, large lace in different colors.
Glamorous, extravagance, not sharp, sensual deep yin, indulgent fashion, glam, mature, deep, sensual yin, pearls, bows, coquette (women who flirt). The most mature of the yin essences. Some contrast, sensual, luxurious, indulgence, glamor, soft, womanly, sexy lines, alluring, defined by a rose.
Adjacent styles: Feminine, Magnetic, Glamorous/Glam,
SUB-STYLES OF ROMANTIC
Sensual: Loves rounded edges, seductive fabrics and colors, and lace. There is a liquid quality to the fabrics they choose and they shine in deep, strong colors. She can also lean a bit vampy with her style but in an elegant way.
Exotic: Excitingly unusual, dramatic + natural, soft + relaxed, earthy rich colors, less high glam, striking + mysterious.
Alluring: Romantic + dramatic, boldness, sharpness, more intense and beautifully confident.
Delicate: They are romantic-leaning, but don’t have the more overt sensuality style of the Sensual Romantic. Popularized lately by pop culture. There is a romantic & feminine quality to the overall looks, but the color palettes are lighter, the prints and details can lean slightly Victorian or antique, and there is an overall softness to the makeup & hairstyles.
Designer/brands: Boston Proper, Diane von Furstenberg, Peruvian Connection, Sundance.
INGENUE/YOUTHFUL- YIN
Physical Features:
Usually 5’5” and shorter.
Small-scale yin, delicate with rounded features + bone structure. Wide apart / wide set eyes, decorative floras, frills, ruffles, vintage, puffed sleeves, lace, bows.
Manner: Sparkling, lively and optimistic. Quick, upbeat and expressive.
Style: Small scale, dainty and delicate. Graceful and can be soft spoken. Doll-like innocent, small decorative round. Light and fair coloring. Soft, delicate, lightness. Dainty & delicate, graceful & soft-spoken, doll-like, innocent, typically fair coloring, gentle, girly, small decorative, rounded edges, sweet, cute, pretty, innocence + youthful femininity, small, idealism.
Adjacent styles: Girly fashion,
Designer/brands: GAP, Garnet Hill, H&M, J.Crew
ETHEREAL/ANGELIC – MOST YIN
Physical Features:
Tall, often 5’7” or taller.
Narrow hips and shoulders, slight build and delicate. Posture like a graceful ballerina.
Elongated facial features, with long oval or long angular face and long neck. Large round wide set eyes with a soft expression and looking far-away. Eyebrows are thin and pale. The nose is delicate and fine-boned. The mouth is small and flat, and could be pale in color. Hair and skin is pale and muted. Typically pale blue or green eyes.
Manner: Demur and other-worldly, giving a sense of an angel, maturity and wisdom. Could look like they’re from another time. Magical and timeless.
Style: Defined by S curves (elongated and round like a lily), purity/pure styles, low contrast, low saturation, unusual features, almost not human looking (more like an angel), celestial style (moons), wedding dresses, braids, metallic or sheen in soft diagonal lines, handkerchief hem, billowy sleeves, abstract shapes, watercolor, waterfall effect – layering, draped, elongated, sheer, drifting away, gently edges that are rounded, subtle blended coloring, softer (but not always), waif-like appearance, purity, soft sharpness, delicate, elongated lines, feminine beauty that’s neither youthful nor sexual. Maturity + wisdom, ancient old souls, unusual looking, passionless sort of beauty, looking inwards. Looks great in lace.
Adjacent styles: Ethereal, other-worldly
Designer Brands: Issey Miyake, Anthropologie, Sundance, Ulla Johnson, Doen, Free People, April Cornell, Natural Life, Reformation, Moda Operandi, and J.Jill, JohnnyWas.
Guidelines
10-15% of an essence use for accessories
20-40% of an essence use for one (1) garment
50%+ of an essence use for entire outfit
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